to start near the bottom

In Between Meals A.J. Liebling make the case for starting one’s gastronomic apprenticeship near the bottom of the food chain […] The same can be said of wine. The poor man, the budget drinker, is forced to make choices and sacrifices thet can only sharpen his discrimination and his appreciation of competing pleasures. Standing at the top, one will miss out on the climb.

Jay McInerney – Bacchus and Me

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